Cruising

Six months, one boat, no engine: crossing the Atlantic the old way

A young couple sold everything, bought a 1974 sloop and sailed from Lisbon to Grenada under canvas alone. Here is what they learned about weather, patience and each other.

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The engine came out in Lisbon. It had been failing for a year, and when the quote to rebuild it came in at more than the boat had cost, Ana and Tomás made a decision most sailors would call reckless. They would cross without one.

“People think the engine is for emergencies,” Tomás says. “Mostly it is for impatience. Take it away and you learn to wait for the wind, to plan the tide, to come into harbour slowly and properly.”

Learning to wait

The first lesson came off the Canaries, where they sat becalmed for four days within sight of La Palma. They read, repaired a jib, and watched the same pod of pilot whales pass twice.

When the trades finally filled in, they filled in hard. Wren ran for eleven days at six knots under a poled-out genoa, the wind-vane self-steering doing work that would otherwise have needed a crew of four.

Take the engine away and you learn to wait for the wind.

Tomás, skipper of Wren

What they would change

  • A second, smaller headsail for the squalls at night
  • Two more solar panels, because the fridge was the first thing to go
  • A proper sculling oar for harbour manoeuvres

They tacked into Prickly Bay at dusk on day 27 and dropped anchor without a sound. A neighbour rowed over to ask whether their engine had died. “We told him it never came,” Ana says.

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